iAmsterdam
The latest posts from A-mag - Amsterdam’s city magazine. Created especially for international visitors and residents, it's packed full of insider tips for what to do and what to see in the city. Pick up your copy at an I amsterdam Visitor Centre, or see the current issue online.
October 4, 2016

5 x places to eat this month

The latest posts from A-mag - Amsterdam’s city magazine. Created especially for international visitors and residents, it's packed full of insider tips for what to do and what to see in the city. Pick up your copy at an I amsterdam Visitor Centre, or see the current issue online.

This month’s selection of culinary hotspots includes a neighbourhood smokehouse, plant-led plates in a warehouse and a former gunpowder factory.

The new one:

DE KRUIDFABRIEK

De Kruidfabriek Amsterdam

‘It was time to spice things up,’ explains former MasterChef Holland judge Peter Lute, whose eponymous restaurant had been a fixture on the local food scene for 14 years. The clue’s in the new name, which translates as ‘the herb factory’ in Dutch, but is also a nod to a former life as part of an 18th-century gunpowder factory (or kruitfabriek) off the banks of the river Amstel. It’s a happy coincidence, then, that herbs have never been hipper and here the cooking explodes with flavour thanks to the aromatics now grown in the obligatory on-site greenhouse and garden.

The ‘sole meunière 2.0’ with beurre noisette, duxelles, deep fried parsley, peppery nasturtium leaf and tangy wood sorrel (€20) is a souped up blast from the classically trained chef’s past, while a 5-course vegetarian menu (€45) brings things bang up to date. Also on the menu is a nose-to-tail exploration of dual-purpose beef, with well-marbled meat from former dairy cows, served with beet, shallots and a jus made from the bones, tail and other unloved bits. Meanwhile, the ‘herb pizza’ with tuna tataki and enoki mushrooms (€15) and the ‘chocolate garden’ dessert with gianduja and basil-yoghurt sorbet (€10) are excellent examples of the relaunched restaurant’s ‘fresher, more daring’ new approach.

De Oude Molen 5 (Amstelveen)

www.dekruidfabriek.nl

The critic’s choice:

CHOUX

Choux Amsterdam

The people behind popular pop-ups Felix and Foyer have found a permanent fixture at a former factory in Oosterdok, where a bright red façade and staircase are the eye-catchers in an otherwise basic industrial interior. What remains is chef Merijn van Berlo’s inventive plant-led plates, which pair mismatched ingredients to create a (mostly) happy marriage that typically delivers on taste, but sometimes comprises too many elements.­­­ However, for such a centrally-located restaurant, it’s affordable by Amsterdam standards (from €33 for a 3-course menu), with reasonably priced vin naturel wines, and of-the-moment cooking that’ll please flesh fans and veggie lovers alike.

De Ruyterkade 128

www.choux.nl

The quick & simple one:

BAYU

Bayu Basuki Barni Amsterdam

Bayu Basuki Barni brings the flavours of his native Surabaya to his Indonesian toko, where modern design meets folkloric flair. With only a few tables, the focus is on take-away, with traditional dishes such as gado gado and chicken satay sitting alongside experimental interpretations like rendang quiche (meals from €7,50).

Haarlemmerdijk 135C

www.sites.google.com/site/bayufoodartindonesiandelimore

The trendy one:

PENDERGAST SMOKEHOUSE

Pendergast Smokehouse Amsterdam

Hip Westerpark is home to Amsterdam’s best brisket and rave-worthy ribs, slow-smoked over Dutch fruit wood by Kansas-born cook Brandon Woodruff. In a city known for its expensive eats, ‘The Spread’ – a trio of mains with three sides, cornbread and a selection of homemade pickles and sauces – is excellent value for money at €59 (serves two to three eaters).

Groen van Prinstererstraat 14

www.pendergast.nl

The classic one:

GEBR. HARTERING

Gebr. Hartering Amsterdam

The Hartering brothers’ nouveau-rustic approach ruffled a few fine dining feathers back when the restaurant launched in 2010, but quickly won over local foodies with unfussy à la carte hits, such as rosemary-covered roasted bone marrow served with crusty bread and pureed garlic (€15), classic côte de bœuf (€39 per person sharing) and an impeccable cheese plate (€15). There’s also an unpretentious five-course chef’s menu (€55) inspired by the seasons.

Peperstraat 10-hs

www.gebr-hartering.nl

Words: Karin Engelbrecht